1990 Corino Barolo Vigneto Rocche

I consider Corino’s 1990 Barolo Vigneto Rocche to be one of the early masterpieces of the modern school of Barolo. The wine appears tohave developed quite a bit since I last tasted it a few years ago and is now fully mature, despite possessing remarkable intensity. A full-bodied, generous wine, it reveals spices, cedar, tobacco, plums and soy sauce in an extroverted, flashy style. The aromatics could be a touch more polished, but the palate more than makes up for that very small flaw. Judging by past experiences, this may not have been the most perfect example of this usually superb Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Brothers Renato and Giuliano Corino have since divided their family’s holdings, but these early Barolos set them apart as some of the most forward-thinking producers of their generation.