2010 Quinta do Vale Dona Maria

The 2010 TINTO (QUINTA VALE D. MARIA) is an old vines field blend from the oldest parts of the Quinta (approximately 60 years), aged for 21 months in barriques, 75% new. This is a very different wine and a very different style than the blockbuster 2009. Depending on whether they fulfill their anticipated evolutions and depending on the personal tastes of the consumer—who knows, some might prefer this. The alcohol this year is 14.5%. It seems far more restrained and balanced, if lacking that extra “wow” component that it often has and had in 2009. Yet, as I sat with this, it seemed remarkably graceful, balanced and persistent. If it is not the biggest or deepest—noting that it still adds about 2 layers of depth to the Casal Loivos bottling—it is still pretty fine. As it aired out, it seemed rather fresh and it developed a more complex flavor medley as well, with a hint of herbs. Its harmony and balance may serve it in good stead and it lacks little. I left a few ounces in a glass for two hours. It was better when I came back. It should be approachable young, but it will age pretty well, too. This is a nice success in the vintage and a good example of how this vintage will work when it does—not a lot of the obvious, but good balance and very pleasing drinking. There were 22,010 bottles produced, plus some large format bottles. Drink 2015-2025. Importers (not everyone carries everything): Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; (tel): (415) 467-0130; Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; Regal Wines, Moorestown, N.J.; (856) 985-6388 (for Van Zellers wines and CV only, although not exclusively); In the Northwest: Vinum, Seattle, WA; tel: (206) 621-8843