1998 Chianti Classico
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Tasting notes
Compared to the 2010 vintage that shows so beautifully now, the Fontodi 1998 Chianti Classico is past its prime. The wine pours from the bottle with a slightly murky appearance, and its appearance lacks overall luminosity and brightness. The aromas are muddled with aged tones of tar, teriyaki smoke, poached pear, moist chewing tobacco and a mineral note that reminds me of crushed or powdery cement like you might get in an old school office building. Although the wine has suffered aromatically, it does show surprising well in the mouth with soft tannins and some acidic kick. My sample was on its last legs, so I'm not going to recommend much of a drinking window.
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Fontodi’s 1998 Chianti Classico reminds me of why I love these wines so much. At age twenty, the 1998 is simply glorious, with plenty of dried cherry, tobacco, saddle leather, licorice, dried cedar and smoke overtones wrapped into a classic, mid-weight frame. Since this wine was made, proprietor Giovanni Manetti has taken Fontodi to even greater heights. Although the wines aren’t quite the values they once were, quality has never been better. Sadly, most bottles are surely long-gone, but readers lucky enough to still be cellaring the 1998 can look forward to at least another five years of pleasure. More broadly, Fontodi’s 1998 reaffirms my long-held view that in the hands of a good producer Chianti Classico is one of the very few ageworthy Old World wines that remains affordable for the average consumer.
About the producer
Based just outside Panzano-in-Chianti, Chianti Classico estate Fontodi was acquired by the Manettis in 1968, a family which has established its modern reputation. Today the leading property is best known for its Flaccianello delle Pieve, the pure Sangiovese Super Tuscan first made in 1981.