2006 Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru

The Raphet 2006 Charmes-Chambertin – like other recent renditions – reflects the youthfulness of the vines here, but represents nonetheless a polished and proportional performance. Ripe cherry and licorice inform a relatively delicate but soothing palate with hints of tart cherry skin and chalk adding interest to a sappy, sweetly-fruited and sustained finish. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 4-5 years. The Raphet wines have always been marked by a wide divergence of quality and a reflection of conditions very much as nature presented them. The results in 2006 are relatively lightweight, with for the most part only bottlings from the characteristically top sites and vines of the domaine really asserting strong personalities (and a presumably hail-tainted and rather 1983-like village Gevrey being less than recommendable). Gerard Raphet says he picked consciously on the early side, and then quickly, boosting the alcohol levels on most wines slightly from their potentials in the low 12s. (For further information about Raphet and his sites, readers are urged to consult my report in issue 171.) Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93