2011 Chambolle Musigny

Bottled at the beginning of May, the 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Village comes from three parcels in close proximity to the village of Morey Saint Denis. Raised in 20% new wood, it has a light bouquet with scents of red currant, raspberry leaf and wild hedgerow that come across as very natural and unpretentious. The palate shows a little toughness on the entry driven by lifted black currant and raspberry fruit, although the acidity maintains decent freshness and supports the structured, masculine finish. This rather obdurate Burgundy needs to be mollified by a hearty meal at the dinner table. Drink now-2016. Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990