2019 Brut

The first vintage release from Westborn, the 2019 Brut features toasty-nutty aromas and hints of sautéed mushrooms, while the fruit elements veer toward ripe citrus—let's call it orange. Initial fermentation and aging six months in oak (with roughly 10% new wood), followed by the wine staying on the lees a remarkable 52 months after the second fermentation, provides impressive richness without excess weight, so this medium- to full-bodied sparkler is rich, creamy and completely dry (the dosage is an exceptionally low two grams per liter), with a long, harmonious finish. For those who find it important, it's 59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay.

A more Pinot Noir-dominated release, the 2019 Brut is 59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay, bottled with 2 grams of dosage. Tart stone fruits, sappy, white flowers, green almond, and chalky mineral notes all shine in this beauty, and it's beautiful on the palate, with a pure, elegant, seamless, yet still chiseled and focused style. The lower dosage keeps this steely and focused, and it's actually more in a Blanc de Blancs style, despite the blend. A new project (although it started a full seven years ago), Westborn is a collaboration between Russell Bevan, Weston Eidson, and Nathan Reeves. The goal is world-class Sparkling Wine from California, and I have to say, after tasting their first release, they've more than delivered, and you can put this up with not only the finest Sparkling wines in California but also the best from Champagne. The level of purity, precision, and depth in these releases is very hard to find in any new world Sparklers.