2012 Condrieu Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay
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The star of the show and up with the creme de la creme, the 2012 Condrieu Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay gives up more lychee, caramelized peach, liquid stone and honey water to go with a full-bodied, concentrated and gorgeously textured feel in the mouth. Coming from a plot of vines planted in 1948 and aged in both barrel and foudre, it is a spectacular Condrieu to drink over the coming 4-5 years. One of the next generation of winemakers to come up through the ranks by working with his father, the young, yet talented, Stephane Ogier (who is one of the youngest vignerons in the appellation) has been fully in control at this brilliant estate since around 2003. Covering roughly 7 acres in Cote Rotie, there are new plantings just now coming on line, both in Cote Rotie and in the surrounding regions as well. In addition, they are in the process of building a completely new cellar located on the western edge of Ampuis. There’s lots going on here, and if you’re a young wine lover today, count yourself lucky that there are young vignerons of this caliber out there. Looking at the 2011s, these show slightly more linear profiles than the 2012s, yet both vintages possess fantastic purity of fruit and overall elegant profiles. Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275
Critic scores
Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Advocate