1990 Castello di Volpaia Coltassala Chianti Classico

I recently tasted through a number of new offerings from this fine Chianti producer, Castello di Volpaia. I found the 1990 Riserva, 1988 Riserva, and 1991 regular bottling to be uninspiring, straightforward wines. However, the two proprietary reds, the 1990 Balifico (65% Sangioveto and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon) and the 1990 Coltassala (95% Sangioveto and 5% Mammolo), are both excellent wines. Potentially more promising, the 1990 Coltassala exhibits a darker color, as well as more tannin than the 1990 Balifico. Fortunately, it is also richer, riper, and fuller, with a sweeter, more expansive finish. Although austere and backward, it is extremely well made. Drink it between 1996-2005. Importer: William Grant & Son, Edison, NJ.