2003 Domaine Jasmin Côte-Rôtie

Deep ruby. Highly aromatic nose features ripe red berries and fresh plum but no roasted qualities. Sweet and deep on the palate, with nicely concentrated, persistent flavors of raspberry and wild strawberry. Long and gently tannic on the finish.

(13. 3% alcohol; I tasted a representative blend) Saturated ruby-red. Fresh aromas of blackberry, pepper, licorice and spices, with a flinty nuance. Sweet, concentrated and peppery, with notes of leather, tree bark and bitter chocolate, along with a slight greenness running through the wine. Slightly hard-edged on the finish, with a suggestion of tarry torrefaction. Shows only modest ripeness in the context of the vintage (the pH is a relatively low 3. 54). Still, Jasmin compares 2003 to his '99. "The 2003 has more finesse, while the 1999 is more powerful and confiture," he told me.

This 2003's acid profile is unusually high, making me wonder if some remedial action had been taken in the cellars. If so, it probably was not necessary in view of how the fermentations actually turned out. Otherwise, this is an attractive, deep ruby/purple-colored Cote Rotie offering a beautiful bouquet of raspberry and cassis fruit, kirsch, and violets in a spicy, medium-bodied, well-made format. Unfortunately, the acidity sticks out like a sore thumb. If it becomes better integrated, this effort will merit a score in the high eighties. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 and Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173