2017 Gruner Silvaner Trocken
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Tasting notes
Instead of the impression of freshly milled wheat that I so often experience with this grape (as well as with this particular exemplar of it) there is here a scent more akin to graham flour, and the silky palate impression exhibits a corresponding sense of nutty richness that marries delightfully with ripe, juicy apple and pear. Fruit pit piquancy and an influx of lemony brightness rare for Silvaner lend invigorating counterpoint and consummate refreshment on a lip-smackingly sustained finish.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Already off the lees and will be bottled March 2018. 25-year-old vines, 42 hl/ha. Every year it is released in April and sold out in May. ‘Beautiful with asparagus’, says Keller. Mostly in Dalsheim. Fragrant with grapefruit and grapefruit pith. Also smoky (not reductive) and a little earthy. Fresh pears and chalky rocks. High extract thanks to the careful berry selection. Terrific freshness and a peppery intensity on the palate. Many people picked too early – some people thought, ‘I lost 15% through frost and 30% through hail, I’m going to pick as soon as I can’. Klaus Peter believes that you don’t just taste the vintage but also the circumstances of the grower – is he in love, is he being pressed by the bank? Concentrated and incredibly long. Shows the potential of this variety and avoids the breadth of some Franken wines. This has real structure and line. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.