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Even richer and fuller on the palate, and capable of standing toe-to-toe with the best Grenaches in the world, the 2009 Pandora checks in as a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah that was aged in 64% new French oak. Coming from a single block of pure chalk soils, its inky purple color is followed by notions of blackberry, black cherry liqueur, smoked ham, vanilla and hints of chalky minerality that give way to a full-bodied, layered and voluptuously textured wine. Despite all of the fruit, it has beautiful mid-palate density and a big, ripe tannic structure. Count me a fan and don’t miss an opportunity to taste this wine! It should benefit from short-term cellaring and drink nicely for 15 years or more. Drink 2015-2024. Located at the very southern end of the Edna Valley and residing in its own little micro climate, Alban Vineyards, under the guidance of John Alban, is a reference point for Rhone varieties in the world today. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, both 2009 and 2010 are strong, with the 2009s possessing plenty of sweet fruit and relatively approachable profiles, and the 2010s showing slightly more structure, with lively acidity and big frames that will fill in once bottled. As is common with John’s Syrahs, these continue to gain in richness and depth as they mature in barrel (they see upwards of 4 years in barrel) and really don’t show all of their material and richness until 4-5 years after the vintage. In addition to his single vineyard Syrahs, I was blown away by his Mourvedre-dominated Forsythe and the Grenache-heavy Pandora (which comes from a single plot of chalky soils). Both are up near the pinnacle of what’s coming out of California today and should not be missed. Tel. (805) 546-0305; www.albanvineyards.com
Critic scores
Average Score
Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2009 Grenache Pandora is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Surprisingly nuanced and detailed for such a big wine, the 2009 impresses for its balance, depth and pure pedigree. White flowers, cloves and mint wrap around layers of plush dark fruit in a sensual, mysterious Grenache of the very highest level. Despite its size, the Pandora is more refined than the straight Grenache. As has always been the case, the Pandora is first and foremost an Alban wine, while varietal notes are less evident, at least today. The 2009 is 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah. Readers lucky enough to find the 2009 are going to be in for a real treat. The Pandora is one of the more unique and compelling wines I tasted in the Central Coast this year.
Alban's Grenache-based 2009 Pandora comes across as exceptionally young. It is one of the firmer of the 2009s in this lineup. It clearly needs time, but there is a purity and energy to the fruit that is striking. Dark red berries, savory herbs, flowers and tobacco flow through to the structured finish. Today, there isn't a whole lot of 2009 vintage sexiness, but hopefully that will emerge over the next year or so. The blend is 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah.
Also almost all Grenache, the 2009 Alban Vineyards Pandora blew me away. Stunning on the nose, with Châteauneuf-du-Pape like aromas of black raspberry, mineral, pepper, and licorice, this beautifully put together blend possesses a rich, medium to full-bodied texture, superb concentration, and a blockbuster finish. As with the Estate Grenache, this has some tannin to integrate, so give bottles a solid 2-3 years in the cellar. It should drink brilliantly for 10-15 years.