1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23

Last year I reported on what is clearly a dramatic change in the winemaking style at this winery. The 1996s, 1995s, and 1994s are all much higher in acidity, with lean, sinewy, tart personalities. Now that this wine has been bottled, it is totally devoid of any of the Cask 23 characteristics shared by some of the marvelous vintages of the past (i.e., 1991, 1990, 1987, 1985, 1984, 1978, and 1974). The color is a dark ruby/purple, and the wine's closed aromatics reveal earth and red currant/cranberry fruit. On the attack, the wine exhibits shrill acidity, medium body, and a cursory finish, which serves to only make the tannin seem more astringent. This narrowly built, compressed, light to medium-bodied Cask 23 is a total departure from previous efforts. What a shame! Tel. (707) 944-2020; Fax (707) 257-7501