2019 Anjou Veau
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Tasting notes
The 2019 Veau contrasts the 2019 Quarts despite both hailing from a nearby parcel. It seems, briefly, round and welcoming before quickly becoming salty and spicy. It's almost a bit scary. Yes, it's fierce - that's because it sits on the western side of the Quarts de Chaume hill, whose pure schist gives tension and ferocity. The 15% alcohol somewhat detracts from the overall balance, but there's no doubting the intensity. The opposite of a quaffing wine that would demand meat and tagine rather than delicate dishes.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
More reviews and scores
"Le Veau is one of the three plots listed in the original decree creating the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation, on the western side," Ivan Massonnat explains, introducing his Anjou Sec Veau. The southwest-facing 1.68-hectare-plot rests on a flush schist area, giving this Anjou from the Quarts-de-Chaume AC (which is exclusively reserved for noble sweet wines) not only richness and power but also mineral tension and great aging potential. In 2018, Massonnat forgot to isolate the fruits of Le Veau, so it went into the Ronceray that I described earlier this year. The 2019 Anjou Sec Veau exhibits an intensely golden-yellow color followed by accordingly intense and concentrated, full and almost overripe, sweet and juicy tropical fruit that is absolutely exciting and made to meditate about whether the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation should not be opened to dry wines as well. However, this unique 2019 opens mind-blowingly intense, rich and complex and immediately asks for our time in order to explore all its depths and to follow the developments in the glass (I am using Zwiesel's wide and open Sensory Giacomo Conterno glass, which is just perfect for this kind of wine). On the palate, this full-bodied and rich yet perfectly balanced and elegant Chenin promptly reveals great finesse and minerality before the fruits come through and cover the palate with an almost oily texture; the spectacularly long finish, carried by crystalline acidity, cuts through this richness to leave the palate with a powerful, intense and aromatic as well as persistently salty aftertaste. This is another picture-book Chenin Blanc from Domaine Belargus, whose interplay of finesse and salinity with power and richness is mind-blowing. Natural cork. Tasted in September 2021.
About the producer
Domaine Belargus rocketed to fame after receiving a perfect score for one of its very first releases. The Anjou estate was created in 2018 by French financier Ivan Massonnat and is dedicated to celebrating the special terroirs of this special corner of the Loire through the lens of Chenin Blanc.