2010 Argyle Pinot Noir Reserve

From their Knudsen Vineyard – with those of Stoller and Lone Star in supporting roles – the Argyle 2010 Pinot Noir Reserve is wreathed seductively and surprisingly in wisteria, buddleia, and mint that convey a metaphorically cooling tone to the soothing, juicy palate evocation of blueberry and dark cherry. Unfortunately, awkward, almost rancid notes of leather and caramelized resin that I associate with oak slightly diminish the appeal of what is still a sweetly sappy as well as invigoratingly fruit pit-tinged finish. This should be worth following for at least 6-8 years, though I’d carefully monitor its oak’s integration – or lack thereof. (A more expensive 2009 Pinot Noir Nuthouse Reserve showed rather stewed – hence slightly dull – in fruit character, and similarly awkwardly oaky.) Specializing in sparkling wine since its 1987 inception, Argyle has gone from strength to strength in that department under the direction of founding winemaker Rollin Soles (who trained originally as a microbiologist). The program here also incorporates a vast array of (by local standards) relatively high-volume still wines. Already large – and controlling the Knudsen and Stoller Vineyards – Argyle undertook a major expansion in 1996 by purchasing the 160 acre Lone Star Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills. “I never make wine by a recipe,” relates Soles, and with his sparklers that applies not only to their ratios of Pinot Noir to Chardonnay and their dosage; it also applies to the levels of sugar at which fruit is picked, which can vary considerably. These are in any event consistently higher than one would encounter in Champagne, but even though finished alcohol typically centers on 13%, the wines exhibit no lack of levity. Soles gives his still Pinots an extended cold soak; generally inoculates, while trying to let the indigenous yeasts first have some say; extracts via punch-downs; and isn’t afraid to allow post-fermentative cap contact if he decides (as he usually does) that a wine will benefit. (Some excellent Pinots that Soles crafts under his own Roco label including from his own vineyard are covered in the on-line second part of this report.) Awkwardly lactic notes and/or what I like to call “memories of high malic” – not to mention sheer simplicity – dampened enthusiasm for those Argyle Chardonnays I tasted; an off-dry Argyle Riesling from their Lone Star Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills was canned fruit in character; musky; prematurely (as I see it) petrol-laced; and faintly metallic in finish, as was its sweeter (arguably overly-so) version dubbed “Nusshaus.” Many of the still wines here are given nicknames. The most prevalent of these – Nuthouse and Spirithouse – refer to past uses of the old buildings that serve as winery facilities in “downtown” Dundee, the latter designation picking out the more expensive cuvee of a given variety, though the word “reserve,” confusingly, gets used sometimes along with and sometimes in lieu of the aforementioned nickname. Tel. (503) 538-8520