2005 Selbach-Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese

The “one-star” Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese* – which comes entirely from the Graben vineyard – explodes from the glass with distilled cherries, citrus oils, brown spices, and high-toned, resinous herbal essences. On a blazingly bright palate, it pours forth vanilla-laced, liqueur-like black cherry, fresh lemon and lime, leading to a finish of formidable length and intensity. Surely this outstanding value has a 30-year supply of raw energy. “For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300