1996 Kistler Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
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Tasting notes
Full bottle 1,378 g. I see that in 2011 I suggested it had come to the end of its rather lovely, rich life. Dark straw. It looks possibly oxidised but doesn't taste it. Rich, yes, even sweet - but there is still some fresh acidity. The fruit may be fading slightly, but only very slowly. I've chosen this last bottle from the back of the cellar to match a first course strong on anchovy and garlic. Rather impressive longevity. (JR)
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Robert Parker
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
From the vineyard round the Kistler winery, produced from 1991. Really sweet, marzipan nose. This 20-year-old California Chardonnay has held up remarkably well. Extremely rich but with admirable freshness too. Great stuff. (JR)
Dark copper colour. Lots of evolution on the nose, almost honeyed, hint of hazelnuts, but still good acidity and great structure. Even a tiny bit astringent on the finish. If this were labelled Montrachet you would not be too disappointed. It's probably (just) past its best but it's really interesting. Lots of green notes and rich stone fruit flavours too. It was still going strong four nights after opening. Long. (JR)
The 1996 Chardonnay Vine Hill Road Vineyard has the highest acidity of the Kistler offerings, and is normally a tight, restrained wine. The 1996, while revealing fine elegance, and a lemony, citrusy, apple-like fruitiness, also exhibited crisp, tart acidity, medium body, and a subtle personality. I suspect there are some minerals lurking in the background of this tightly-knit Chardonnay that should age well for 5-6 years. All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year. Readers should recognize that Kistler's policy is to sell most of their production directly to consumers and restaurants. Readers who live in states that permit direct shipment of California wines should be sure and get on the winery's mailing list. Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709
About the producer
Kistler’s Chardonnays are some of the world’s most sought-after. This cult Californian producer crafts small volumes of exceptional, rich and generous, yet mineral and precise wines. With almost the entire production sold directly to their mailing list, the wines are also incredibly hard to find.