2012 Mayacamas Chardonnay

A library release, the 2012 Chardonnay is a light polished-brass hue in the glass, but one sample smelled a bit advanced, showing hints of bruised apple and cider on the nose, alongside mossy oak and candied lemon. A second bottle was fresher and brighter, without the bruised fruit or cider qualities. Both were medium-bodied and silky textured, and while the first bottle seemed to be drying out, the second still had some life left in it. Such bottle variation is expected under natural cork closures, even given perfect provenance. My rating reflects the better bottle, which should be consumed over the next few years.

High elevation (600-800 m). Wente clone, no malo, fermented in tank and neutral oak, aged in mostly neutral oak, very little new wood. Pale gold, definite developed cedary character on the nose. Fresh pine. Tangy, almost a retsina character, and that same cedary quality on the palate. Big but totally fresh, less lush than the 2013 but still with driving power and impressive length. It is not all about the fruit but there is plenty of fruit. With time in the glass, there’s a hint of toffee/popcorn sweetness on the nose. Creamy in the texture but not oaky. (JH)

Quite bitter and underripe to my tastes. Lean verging on skeletal. (RH)