2003 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese**
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Tasting notes
(for 375 ml.) This offers a uniquely vivid, brightly lit expression of Sonnenuhr. Penetrating citricity along with nectarine and white peach play against honey, nut oils, malt, salts and wet stone in a veritable fugue of flavor. This represents what little there was of botrytized but still-yellow fruit when the picking crew did their earliest foraging. 2 stars.
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Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
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Boasting a nose of spicy apples, the 2003 Riesling Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr*** is a large-scaled, medium to full-bodied, boldly assertive wine. Though immensely rich and thick, it has wonderful balance, freshness, and harmony. Loads of botrytis can be found among this effort’s pineapple, passion fruit, poached pear, and raspberry flavors. Deep, concentrated and pure, it also exhibits an exceptionally long finish. Projected maturity: 2008-2022. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
Made from such botrytised fruit as there was (not much) picked at the end of September. At Berry Bros it costs twice the price of the regular Auslese but with such a muted botrytised effect, I’d propose the cheaper wine (£20 a bottle) as the better buy. (JR)