1988 Château Raymond-Lafon

This small estate continues to turn out remarkably rich, unctuously-textured, thick, powerful wines that brilliantly balance power and intensity with elegance and finesse. The 1988 offers the most refined aromatic profile and the tightest structure. All three wines share opulent, full-bodied, exotic, lavishly rich personalities, moderate sweetness (the 1990 is the sweetest), and huge quantities of extract, glycerin, and alcohol in their finishes. All three wines are also extremely young and unevolved. They can be drunk now, but purchasers are advised to wait until the turn of the century and enjoy them over the following two decades.

Pale gold color. Lively but rather unforthcoming aromas of caraway seed, rye, grapefruit skin and fennel; brightened by a floral quality. Fresh and bright in the mouth, but not especially thick or concentrated. Still, the flavors are sharply etched. Finishes slightly harsh. Very good but not outstanding.