1993 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante Alouette
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Tasting notes
Pale tawny with a deep pink tinge. How does this relate to today's bevy of Chapoutier Ermitage Blancs? Doubtless J Livingstone Learmonth tells us in his excellent book about the northern Rhône. Big broad beeswax nose – so heady. Obviously low acid but not fat. Long and sturdy and absolutely great with veal kidneys in creamy mustard sauce. On the other hand, a wine-loving friend just did not get it. Too much? Heaven knows how this tasted in its youth. Drinking window suggested refers to the end of its life. (JR)
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The 1993 Chante-Alouette is a large-scaled, thick, flowery, mineral, honeyed wine with a pronounced aroma of acacia flowers. Deep and full-bodied, with gobs of fruit, it is a superb white Hermitage for drinking over the next 10-20 years. Last tasted 6/96.
Young Michel Chapoutier continues to raise considerable controversy wherever he goes. His unequivocable belief in the principles of Bio-Dynamic farming and his youthful confidence, that may come across as arrogance and a display of too little respect for his more experienced and more elderly peers, have not made life easy for Chapoutier, despite the number of great wines he has produced. This is all lamentable given the fact that Michel Chapoutier would be the first to acknowledge the debt he owes producers such as Marcel Guigal, Gerard Chave, Francois and Jean-Pierre Perrin, and Jacques Reynaud for leading the way. Producers who are as committed to quality as Chapoutier should attract supporters rather than detractors. The work which Chapoutier is doing, along with the work of many other top Rhone Valley producers only creates more interest in the wines of that region. Chapoutier is extremely pleased with his 1994s, claiming it is a vintage not far removed from the powerful 1990. The crop size was extremely small, with yields generally between 1-2 tons of fruit per acre. The 1994 white wines have all been bottled save for the luxury cuvee of Hermitage Cuvee de l'Oree. Where pertinent, I have indicated lot numbers because of complaints about bottle variation with certain cuvees of the Chapoutier wines, most notably the firm's branded wines, Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonnieres, St.-Joseph Deschants, and the two cuvees of Hermitage, Chante Alouette and La Sizeranne. Bottle variation can be the result of a number of factors, such as dissimilar blends (unlikely at this winery) or poor shipping and/or storage conditions, thus abusing the wine (the most likely culprit). The 1993 Hermitage Chante Alouette Lot 5931 achieved 14% natural alcohol. It offers up a buttery, smoky, mineral-scented nose, followed by a wine with considerable power, intensity, and an unctuous texture. An outstanding example from this difficult vintage, it should drink well for 10+ years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 247-7070