2006 Bodegas Roda Bodegas Roda I Reserva

The 2006 Roda I Reserva has a sultry bouquet with brambly black fruit, briar, and a touch of dried rose petal, all with fine delineation. The palate is tannic and masculine on the entry. It is well-defined with touches of dried blood and spice, the fruit opting to remain in the background and allowing intriguing spicy, savory notes to dominate the middle and finish. It deserves another three of four years in bottle so that it can fully express itself. Drink 2015-2025. The wines from Bodegas Roda should need no introduction. “We want to offer consistency,” winemaker Gonzalo Lainez told me. “We own and control 28 different vineyards and we choose the best seventeen every year. The Reserva is more red fruit character, more gastronomic. Other single vineyards that have a black fruit character are not so easy to find at an early stage and are blended into Roda I. So vineyards can end up in either, or be sold off. We work under three tenets. We like acidity in our wines, the oak must play a secondary role and the most important, supple tannins.” I enjoyed the wines of Roda, but to be frank, I often found myself searching for a sense of personality, as if the wines were somehow pre-designed instead of working with what Mother Nature gifts. They are highly pleasurable, but in an age where high-end consumers are looking for wines that say something, I would like to see the wines from Roda opening their mouths. Moreover, I do detect the oak too often, analogous to a supporting actor reading the leading actor’s lines. These tasting notes derive from samples that were mostly tasted twice in the UK. Importer: Kobrand, New York, NY; www.kobrandwine.com