2018 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc

58% Sauvignon Blanc, 42% Sauvignon Musqué. Fermentation in barrels made by Tonnellerie Cadus, 18% new oak. Aged in barrel also with biweekly lees-stirring (for six months). Intense aroma that combines herbal and stone fruit and a hint of grapefruit and blackcurrant leaf. Smells riper and more open the next day. The oak is not immediately obvious on the nose except in a delicate mealy spice. Remarkably soft and rounded with a slight sweetness I did not expect (I don't have any analysis to check). The nose and the palate seem quite different from each other. Somehow viscous in the mouth and too sweet for balance, plus a scentedness that I guess is the Musqué. There's also a weight that I find a little bit awkward without the balancing freshness. Finishes a bit flat though it might appeal to those who don't like their Sauvignon lean and grassy. The nose suggested a rather nice stony quality but it doesn't follow through on the palate. (JH)

Starting with the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, which comes all from the Russian River Valley, it has a vivid bouquet of green citrus, flinty minerality, white figs, and sugared mint to go with a rounded, sweetly fruited style on the palate. Made in a soft, charming, ready-to-go style, drink it over the coming year or three.

Made before Roederer acquired this popular Sonoma estate. Fresher aroma than many North Coast Sauvignons. Though much richer on the palate than most Sauvignons made elsewhere. It will be fascinating to see how the wine evolves with some input from Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Roederer's technical director. It could be just the job with lobster – but we're planning turbot tonight and I'm afraid it will be too heavy. A strong lanolin note and some apparent sweetness makes me see some similarities with the jazziest white wines made by the most ambitious St-Émilion producers. I suspect this may be slimmed down a little in future. But it's fun, so long as you're not looking for something really refreshing. (JR)