1998 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

A monopole owned by the Gouges family. Bright ruby-red. Reduced aromas of black raspberry, cassis, leather, smoke and fresh blood. Tightly wrapped and rather folded in on itself; perhaps because it's a wine of moderate texture, it conveys an impression of stronger acidity. But there's excellent fruit intensity here. Finishes very long and firmly tannic, but not dry or green. Gouges is in the habit of saying that the Pruliers, Vaucrains and Les Saint Georges are his true vins de garde , but this one should also develop slowly.