2023 Chardonnay Margaret River

The 2023 Chardonnay hails from a magnificent season in Margaret River. The lead-in through the winter and spring of 2022 brought healthy rainfall and good conditions during flowering, meaning that, in general, yields were good in 2023. The canopies that developed through the summer of 2022 and into the summer and growing season of 2023 were lush and controlled, the weather was mild and the disease pressure was low. In short, the Margaret River region (and by accurate extension, almost everywhere in Western Australia) was able to pick when they felt the fruit was ripe and the tannins resolved. On both the nose and palate are ripe peach, crushed nuts, preserved citrus, beeswax, brine and salted butter/crème caramel. The acidity is juicy and ripe, and the palate is texturally undulating. It's a brilliant wine. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

95% Gingin, 5% clone 95. 30- to 45-year-old vines planted on gravelly loam with high proportion of granite, and clay subsoil. Single vineyard, north-facing slope at 80 m of elevation. High-density vineyard with vines planted 1 m x 1.8 m. Hand-picked between 14 February and 23 March. Hand-sorted and 100% whole-bunch pressed. Fermented in 225-litre burgundian oak barriques, 44% new. 77% of the wine underwent malolactic conversion in barrel. Aged 12 months in barrel. One filtration at bottling only. Seductively pure citrus and fresh pears, the oak subtly adding to the inviting aroma. The oak shows more on the palate – more in caressing texture than oak flavour – which is mealy and gently spiced. Rounded and fresh in equal measure. (JH)

Full screwcapped bottle just 1,108 g. Well done! According to the back label, it should be approached from June 2025 but will last for a further 10 years. Brilliant pale gold. Rich and buttery on the nose – much broader than most Australian Chardonnays. Sweet palate entry and then some strong green-fruit flavours with quite a chewy finish still. Just a little alcoholic warmth on the finish. Good satin texture and pleasure-giving but I'd suggest cooling this reasonably well before drinking. (JR)