2010 Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg

Due to have been bottled in July, the Alzinger 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg is intriguingly-scented with toasted almond and caraway, along with sweet pea and intimations of fresh lime; white peach and purple plum, which then expand succulently on the palate. A bite of white pepper and piquant, smoky hint of Latakia tobacco lend counterpoint to the long, luscious, deeply savory, prominently citric finish of a Gruner Veltliner that could well be mistaken for great Riesling. I suspect this beauty will be worth following for at least 12-15 years. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300