1995 Puligny Montrachet Clos de La Truffiere

Both of Michel Colin's Pulignys are marvelous: Deep sweet fruits can be discerned lurking in the tightly wound nose of the Puligny Montrachet La Truffiere. Gorgeously ripe, and with notes of refined roasted fruits, this silky beauty has the stuffing and the structure needed for 10-12 years of cellaring, if those lucky enough to own some can resist its charms. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Always among the first of the major white Burgundy producers to bottle, Michel Colin makes forward wines that can be enjoyed the moment they are released. This estate's '95s are some of the best wines produced to date, combining first-rate extraction of fruit with excellent balance. I can't wait to taste Colin's '96s, produced from a vintage he claims is superior. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.