2012 Quinta do Vale Meao

Very dark fruited and just a touch of char on the nose. Dark fruit and dark chocolate on the palate, some oak char too, but savoury and smoky with finesse to the texture. Lithe and chalky on the finish. (JH)

Floral, dark-fruited intensity on the nose. Violets. Rich, violet-chocolate intensity. Caressing, deep tannins. Full and perfumed and long. Great purity. (JH)

The 2012 Estate Tinto is a blend of 58% Touriga Nacional, 35% Touriga Franca, 5% Tinta Barroca and 2% Tinta Roriz, aged for 18 months in French barriques (80% new, the rest second use). It comes in at 14% alcohol and was sourced from vines averaging 45 years of age. Like so many reds in this fresh, elegant vintage, the emphasis here is more on balance than concentration and that "wow" moment. Yet, this winery is surprisingly elegant in most years, even if from Douro Superior. It rarely goes for the obvious, usually happier with finesse and balance. Overall, this seems on track to do well. It is no wimp and it is simply irresistible. There is intensity on the finish, both in flavor and some tannic pop. After the fruity opening, it closes fairly quickly. If the palate was initially laced with wonderfully fresh fruity notes, it became a bit stern as it aired. Its little brother, the Meandro reviewed this issue, lacks its feeling of fullness as this Estate Tinto expands in the mouth. The fruit nuances here are also more invigorating and more interesting. The next day, it seemed like an elegant Burgundy, a bit understated but caressing on the palate and simply delicious. It does tighten pretty quickly with aeration. Overall, this is a pretty fine wine in this vintage and it will be one of those wines you simply love to drink. Expect it to improve in the cellar over the next 4-5 years. There were 2,050 cases produced.