2012 Tiara Branco

The 2012 Tiara is rather different this year, with a new bottle and capsule. Its vinification has also changed. An old vines field blend of mostly Códega do Larinho, Rabigato, Donzelinho and Cercial, among others, it is now aged in used tonels for 12 months and comes in with 4.9 grams per liter of residual sugar (just a touch over the traditional line for "fully dry"). It also had malolactic fermentation. A bit creamy and showing some wood early on--not words I am used to using for Tiara--this wine's fine acidity eventually rises above the other components and balances the wine. There is a hint of steel, lead and stones, and it shows good persistence on the finish. Also showing fine depth for the year and intensity of flavor, it is well-structured and rather delicious, the nuanced flavors mingling with the overall fruity feel. Tiara is a nice bargain point in the lineup this year. It should age well, too.