2009 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon The Lark

The 2009 Proprietary Red The Lark, which was released in early 2013, comes from a single plot of rocky soils as well as the Eisele clone of Cabernet Sauvignon. More tannic, backward and brooding, this classic red needs more time in the bottle. Like many 2009s, it appears to have gone into a dormant state with the tannins dominating at present. However, the wine exhibits impressive purity, power, richness and a full-bodied mouthfeel. Cellar it for 3-4 years and drink it over the following 20-25 years. This splendid estate situated in the heart of Napa Valley, just north of St. Helena, has enjoyed a reputation for high quality for well over a century. Tasting with winemaker Andy Smith and Larkmead’s proprietor Cam Baker demonstrated once again just what brilliant wines these can be. All of the top cuvees (Solari, LMV Salon and the Lark) were declassified and not produced in 2011. 2012 appears to be a fabulous vintage for proprietor Cam Baker. Tel. (707) 942-0167

Just as impressive as it was last year, the 2009 Proprietary Red Wine The Lark is all pencil shavings, graphite, incense and smoke. A deep, beguiling wine, the 2009 stands out for its perfumed aromatics, delineated fruit and phenomenal overall balance. Still powerful and implosive, the 2009 will require patience. It has much less of the early appeal and sheer sexiness of the other 2009s here. (AG)

(100% cabernet sauvignon, from a single block on the estate's rockiest soil; this fruit is also the main component in the Solari bottling): Good full ruby. Powerful rocky minerality on the nose, along with a brooding black fruit perfume. Like liquid silk in the mouth, with flavors of cassis, menthol, licorice, spices and crushed rock. Showing captivating sucrosite today; will this shut down in the bottle? Finishes with huge, broad tannins and superb rising length to its blue fruit, licorice and rocky flavors. This may be even better with seven or eight years in bottle and should enjoy a very long and slow evolution.