2019 Benanti Etna Rosso Riserva Rovittello Particella 341

Roughly 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio, co-planted in a terraced vineyard located in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo, in the upper area of Rovittello, part of the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, on Etna’s northern slope, at 750 m (2,450 ft). Sandy, volcanic soil, rich in minerals. A parcel of pre-phylloxera, ungrafted, head-trained bush vines (alberello) with a planting density of 9,000 to 10,000 vines/ha and a yield of 5,500 kg/ha. Hand-picked and selected in late October. Fermentation takes place in a stainless-steel vat at a controlled temperature of 25 °C, with a long maceration, using Benanti’s own indigenous yeast, which was selected from local vineyards through years of research and experimentation in the cellar. Malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel, then maturation occurs in large barrels of French oak (15 hl) for about 24 months followed by 12 months in bottle. Slightly spicier, more floral nose than the 2019 Contessa from the south side of Etna. A juicier nose, somehow. On the palate, more triangular, pointing precisely and sharply towards the finish. Acidity that feels and tastes like ripe apricot. Tannins that feel like a man’s just-shaved chin. More dense and nervous and folded tightly up than the Serra della Contessa. Masses of iodine minerality and a fine, fine seam of bitterness. Like black olives with orange zest. Black and bark-stained spices. More brooding and fissured by shadow. (TC)