2014 Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben

Mint-tinged pear, lentil and snap pea inform an alluring nose and a rich, subtly creamy palate. But while there is satisfyingly persistent juiciness, this lacks the animation or clarity displayed by most of its stablemates and will, I suspect, be best enjoyed young. Here is a wine that illustrates what Nigl describes as a surprising dropping-off of acidity in certain sites as harvest progressed, so that he readily admits the finished product (taking into consideration its malolactic transformation) would have benefited from a bit more.