2005 F.X. Pichler Riesling Durnsteiner Kellerberg Smaragd

The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg (tasted from cask) offers ripe pit fruits and only subtle pepperiness in the nose, then comes on the palate rich and full (with 14.2% alcohol) yet sappy and bright as well. This lacks the multi-dimensionality of the very best Kellerberg Rieslings at this address, nor has it the poise and dynamic of the Loibenberg. But there is such opulent richness of fruit together with such a seemingly inexhaustible wealth of juicy citricity and subtly peppery minerality that one cannot help but be deeply impressed. My experience suggests that as it betrays at most the faintest hint of heat, this wine’s alcohol will not catch up with it as it ages. Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Federspiel Von den Terrassen ($29.00; 86). Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800