2008 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard

One of my favorite Aubert offerings that typically has a Montrachet-like character emerges from the Reuling Vineyard. Made from a suitcase clone from Burgundy’s most famous vineyard, it is an extraordinary effort. Readers looking for staggering levels of minerality and depth of flavor should check out this Chardonnay. The 2008 Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard offers aromas of crushed rocks, damp soil, honeysuckle, brioche, lemon oil, orange marmalade and buttered citrus. This compelling Chardonnay is full-bodied with great intensity, good acidity and stunning perfume as well as length. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Mark Aubert’s brilliant Chardonnays continue to place this winery in California’s top Chardonnay hierarchy, sharing the same rarified air as Marcassin, Kongsgaard, Peter Michael, Luc Morlet, Kistler, Hartford Court and DuMol. These cool climate, usually hillside sites on the Sonoma Coast are cropped low, the wines are fermented in new French oak and bottled without fining or filtration. I am on Aubert’s mailing list, and while I never seem to have enough wines to age very long, a recent tasting of his 2004s revealed them to still be in splendid condition. With a few noteworthy exceptions, aging California Chardonnay beyond a decade is a fool’s game, but certain older Marcassin and Mt. Eden Chardonnays have impressively stood the test of time. I am sure Aubert’s would also, but who can defer their gratification that long? Tel. (707) 963-4569; Fax (707) 963-4322

(15.6% alcohol) Pale, green-tinged yellow. Reticent but pure aromas of crushed stone, flowers and herbal tea. Broad, classically dry and powerful, with primary fruit flavors currently overshadowed by soil-driven minerality. This is chewy-verging-on-thick and seems the least expressive of this set of chardonnays today.