2007 Gevrey Chambertin Bel Air

Medium red. Raspberry and smoked meat on the nose. Supple and sweet on entry, then quite firm, even a bit youthfully strict, in the middle, with an intriguing chalky quality providing lift. Finishes with a saline, savory quality, solid structure and a sappy impression. A serious style of 2007, in need of a year or two of patience. (The Chambolle-Musigny was distinctly lower-toned and less perfumed than it appeared to be from barrel, but Pacalet cautioned that all of his 2007s lost color and definition after the bottling and need at least a few more months to come back. Time will tell.)