2004 Thomas Pinot Noir Dundee Hills

Bright red. Seductive raspberry, redcurrant and wild strawberry aromas are complemented by an array of Asian spices, dried violet, yellow rose, cured meat, graphite and iron notes. I'd have called this a platonic Mazis-Chambertin, blind, but it's also floral enough to guess Clos de Beze, or meaty and mineral enough to say Cote-Rotie. Medium in body, with silky tannins supporting fresh raspberry and kirsch flavor, and suave mocha and smoky bacon notes adding depth. Impressively balanced, elegant wine, offering a deft mix of fresh berry, meat and musky earth tones, and finishing on a bright, persistent mineral note. Gains sweetness and depth with air, but remains strikingly elegant and classically dry. Hold this for at least three years; it should drink well for another decade after that. My most recent bottle of 1994 was flat-out gorgeous, by the way. I'm betting that this spine-chillin' hair-raiser, which is emphatically about more than just fruit, turns out even better. My score may prove to be low.