1993 Howell Mountain Merlot Bancroft Ranch

When I was in northern California the week before Thanksgiving, the rumors that were swirling about the impending sale of Beringer by its international corporate owner, Nestle, to an investment consortium proved true when the sale was announced. Let's hope the new owners maintain the status quo, as Beringer has had an exceptional run of highly successful wines since the mid-eighties. Considering the diversity of wines produced, I would be hard pressed to single out another winery that has enjoyed as much success as Beringer has over the last decade. With the exception of a chunky, overly-oaked Pinot Noir, it is impossible to find anything less than top-flight at Beringer, with many of the firm's wines undeniably special. With respect to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Beringer could teach a few things to some of its neighbors, as these varietals soar to the heights of quality at this winery. Beringer's most glorious red wines are their three estate wines, the Bancroft Vineyard Merlot, the Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, and their limited production (800-1000 cases), blockbuster Chabot Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1993 and 1994 Bancroft Vineyard Merlots are two of the greatest Merlots that have been produced in California. Both are huge, massive, exceptionally concentrated Merlots with opaque purple colors, marvelous, concentrated flavors, lush, viscous textures, an expansive inner-core of fruit, and well-integrated tannin. Beringer is not afraid to let the PH get as high as 3.7 (a la a Bordeaux from a great vintage such as 1990, 1989, and 1982), and thus the full textural aspects of the wine are well-displayed. It is exceedingly difficult to pick a favorite among recent vintages of Bancroft Merlot, as they are all extraordinary wines. Capable of delicious drinking upon release, these Merlots are so concentrated and well-balanced that they will last for 15+ years. Beringer has once again proven that they are one of the qualitative leaders in California as they continue to turn out reference point wines - not only for California, but the world. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-5054