2012 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Kammerner Gaisberg

The Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Riesling Gaisberg displays mineral diversity – crushed stone, salts, and mysteriously ore-like notes such as were noted also in its 2010 instantiation – in the sense of suffusion as well as of shimmering presence glimpsed through transparent juiciness of pure apple, mirabelle and white peach. Piquancy of fruit pit serves for ideal contrast and counterpoint to the Schmalz of glycerol-richness and gloss. The finish here is exhilarating in its projection of energy unlikely to dim through at least 2022. Largely due to May frost, Michael Moosbrugger experienced in 2012 the smallest harvest since he took over Schloss Gobelsburg (and debuted as a vintner) in 1996. Despite this small crop and largely balmy conditions, harvest still stretched until the tenth of November. “One reason for that,” he admits, “is the red wines, because we always begin with them to avoid over-ripeness or danger of rot, and for red wine you have to harvest at precisely the right time, especially with St. Laurent” rather than enjoying the flexibility offered by Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. In the event, the whites here this year seldom significantly exceeded 13% in alcohol. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300