2008 Beaune Teurons

The Germain 2008 Beaune Teurons displays aromas of roasted chestnut, cassis, nutmeg, cinnamon, blond tobacco, and vanilla, which follow on a palate of considerable friskiness and berry-freshness, underlain by notes of chalk, moss, and other aspects of forest floor. The piquancy of brown spices is especially prominent in a palate-staining finish that in no way betrays this energetic wine’s over-14% alcohol. Look for at least 10-12 years of fascination. Benoit Germain did not begin picking his 2008s until September 29, “by which time,” he claims, “every other grower in Chorey was finished,” though he adds with a wry smile that “last year 2009 I was ahead of everybody.” With a little help from space heaters, all of the 2008 whites here finished their malos by early March (of 2009 that is), but timing for the reds varied widely, and in any case, Germain favors late-bottling, so that most of them were still in barrel when I tasted here in March. That the principal Germain 2007s displayed such vivacity and could hold their own against his 2008 collection surprised me, and since wines from this estate often require considerable cellaring to show their true meddle, these 2007s represent an excellent and immediately accessible introduction to the Chateau de Chorey. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70 Also imported by Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476 and a Scott Levy Selection, Norcross, GA; tel. (770) 730-0361