2014 Ulysse Collin 'Les Pierrieres'

Collin's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2014) is evolving beautifully, offering up a complex, gently reductive bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, ripe citrus fruits, freshly baked bread, white flowers and anise that's reminiscent of a top white Burgundy. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with a textural attack that segues into a deep, concentrated and chiseled mid-palate, it's pillowy, racy and penetrating, concluding with a long, saline finish. The 2014 was was complemented by fully 50% reserve wines from the 2013, matured in foudre rather than barrels, and was disgorged after 36 months on the lees with 1.7 grams per liter dosage: very little by any standard, but more than Collin added to his earliest releases.