2005 Riesling Unendlich Smaragd

The 2005 Riesling Unendlich is the latest in the Pichlers’ series of wines that proclaim themselves as “endless” in finish, and comes entirely from the Loibnerberg, representing a late picking of the few bunches that had been left on these vines. In its spice and overtly peppery aromatics, this suggests Kellerberg. Aromas of white peach and yellow plum are followed by billowing waves of fruit on the palate, all the while dynamically engaging in a counterpoint with pepper, salt, and spice nuances. This wine in fact combines the imposing richness of this year’s Kellerberg with the active interplay of flavors and the poised, buoyant character of the Loibenberg bottling. The finish, as advertised, is a veritable fire hydrant of pit fruits and salty, savory, faintly sizzling spice and minerals. Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Federspiel Von den Terrassen ($29.00; 86). Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800