2015 Haardt Muskateller

This had a hard act to follow (namely, its glorious 2014 predecessor), and that task was rendered even more challenging by the fruit of the estate’s oldest Muskateller vines having for the first time been segregated to inform a separate bottling. (See my review of that wine, labeled for the relevant Einzellage, Bürgergarten.) Celery stalk, mint, sage and oregano on the nose put me in mind of Muscat with a bit of underripe Gewürztraminer. The pithy, pungent expression of green herbs is joined by apricot kernel piquancy on a firm, chewy palate, and smoky and resinous notes help extend a gripping finish that would come off as downright severe and borderline bitter were it not for the welcome influx of juicy, mouthwatering celery-stalk salinity. This is an impressively aggressive and nippy beast that will need watching at table but could well prove quite useful. I would not count on it being one of the many long-lived Müller-Catoir Muskatellers, as I suspect the bitter elements will gain the upper hand with time in bottle.