2009 Sauvignon Blanc Georgia

(from Totem Vineyard fruit harvested at the end of August; tasted just three days prior to being bottled): Slightly hazy yellow with a green tinge. Penetrating aromas of candied lemon drop, pineapple, citrus oil, coconut and minerals, lifted by a floral high note and some sexy oak tones. Glyceral but with a firm acid spine intensifying the fruit and giving it cut. Finishes with excellent lemony, stony persistence. Winemaker Philippe Melka says this is actually rather soft in acidity for 2009 sauvignon blanc, but I find it sufficiently taut.

The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Georgia, which comes from a Yountville vineyard, reveals a perfume of honeyed melons, subtle smoke and a distinctive minerality. Medium-bodied and intense with abundant texture and concentration, the oak aging is present in the background, but the wine has the texture and power of a Chardonnay with its Sauvignon flavors well-displayed. Both of these wines could last for a decade although I suspect they are best drunk during their first 2-3 years of life. This is a beauty. (Not yet released) Proprietors John and Robin Lail are among an increasing number of Napa Valley producers making two hierarchies of wines, a less expensive cuvee based on purchased fruit and their flagship offerings that are usually made from estate-owned vineyards. The objective of these programs is to give consumers and restaurants less expensive wines without sacrificing quality. Lail’s value priced offerings are sold under the Blueprint label. Tel. (707) 968-9900