2012 Christian Moreau - Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru
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Moreau's 2012 Chablis Vaillon has come together beautifully over the last year. Lemon oil, flowers and crushed rocks all jump from the glass as this vibrant, chiseled Chablis shows off its considerable personality. The flavors are bright, focused and articulate throughout. Expressive saline notes underpin the refreshing finish. This is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Today, the Villon is a bit reduced in the bouquet, so a few hours of air are advised if readers are planning to enjoy the wine young.
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, which comes from five parcels of vines averaging 47 years and is raised in 35% used oak for 8 months, has an outgoing and quite engaging bouquet with scents of apple blossom, almond and a whiff of white truffle. The palate is well-balanced with a crisp line of acidity. This has very good weight and impressive complexity, hints of fresh orange zest and lemon coming through on the finish. Recommended. Drink now-2020. Opposite the winery of William Fevre is Domaine Christian Moreau. Unusually, Christian owns more grand cru vines than premier or village cru, such is the way the family’s chips fell when the Moreau family’s holdings were split in 2002 between his cousins to form Louis and Christian Moreau. Everything here is harvested by hand – even the Petit Chablis. Christian told me that the 2013 vintage is the first to be certified organic, which is how his vines have been tended since 2005. Around 65% of the fruit is aged in stainless steel, the remainder in a combination of used barrels, around 10% new or 1-year-old. I must confess that I was relatively unfamiliar with Christian’s wines but I was mightily impressed. They showed great detail both aromatically and on the palate, expressing the nuances with style, perhaps with the one exception being the Vaudesir. Christian came across as a conscientious winemaker, aware of his enviable holdings but refreshingly down-to-earth and practical. Importer: Frederic Wildman (US) and Thorman Hunt and Haynes, Hanson & Clarke (UK)
Bright yellow. Rather reticent aromas of quinine, mint, licorice and caraway seed. Fairly rich on the palate but tight and serious today, with juicy yellow peach and spice flavors nicely framed by harmonious acidity. Saturates the palate on the aftertaste, but I'd give this at least two or three years in the cellar before pulling the cork.
A bit reduced today in its bouquet, the 2012 Chablis Vaillon is much more expressive on the palate. The wine's persistence, length and gorgeous textural depth all bode well for the future.