NV Françoise Bedel Brut Dis Vin Secret

Bedel’s overwhelmingly Meunier-dominated NV Brut Dis, Vin de Secret Brut DB051012 (this batch harbors 15% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot) received partial barrel-elevage, though it was fermented in tank. Its greenhouse-like evocation of flowering and leafing things is typical for Meunier, with scents of coriander and mint prominent, and those of apple, winter pear, and almond anticipating the dominant flavors on a coolly restrained, silken textured palate. Cleansing yet clinging, the lusciously lingering finish subtly glows with an aura of herbal essences. Having no experience with this wine before now, I can only hazard a guess that it will continue to delight for a couple more years – and for all that I (don’t) know, perhaps significantly longer. Francoise Bedel’s achievements represent one more among numerous recent demonstrations that long- or even perpetually neglected sectors of Champagne – in her case, the Marne Valley’s Meunier-rich western fringe – can set off vinous fireworks. Bedel has been farming entirely biodynamically for fifteen years, and has become quite well-known for her advocacy of that regimen. An inexpensive entry-level cuvee is absent from her portfolio; but then, she not only works in an extremely meticulous and labor-intensive way, she also releases no wine sooner than five years after its harvest. Importer: Jon-David Headrick Selections, Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252-8245