2003 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir Hemel-en-Aarde Valley

Moderately saturated medium red. Burgundian aromas of black cherry, pepper, tar, minerals and fresh herbs. Very suave on entry, then complex and lively in the middle palate, with ineffable flavors of berries, spices, cocoa powder, minerals and earthy underbrush. Dense and lively, without an ounce of extra fat. Builds impressively toward the end, finishing with very sweet, refined tannins. (The highly promising 2004 from barrel showed captivating raspberry and rose petal aromas and flavors, and lovely inner-mouth perfume.) Pinot noir in South Africa does not get better than this.