2011 Agro de Bazan Albariño Granbazan Ambar

The 2011 Granbazan Etiqueta Ambar has a glorious, floral bouquet with racy lemon, bruised apple and granitic scents that are pure class. The palate is fresh and zesty with a crisp seam of acidity; bright apple-y fruit and a touch of spice towards the poised finish. If I were to quibble, the palate does not quite match the aromatics, but it remains an excellent Albarino. Drink now-2018. Bodega Granbazan is located in Tremoedo, in the Salnes sub-zone of Rias Baixas. Owners Manuel Otero and his nephew Jesus Alvarez own 17 hectares of 30-year-old Albarino vines that is supplemented by long-term contract with growers. Grapes are hand-picked, de-stemmed and undergo six to eight hours of cold maceration, while fermentation is undertaken in concrete and steel tanks using both natural and cultured yeast. I adore their evocative, rather old-fashioned labels with their maritime-themed drawings and equally, more importantly, I loved the wines inside. These are pure Rias Baixas Albarinos that brim over with crispness, flavor and authenticity. Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com