2003 August Kesseler Spätburgunder Trocken

The basic 2003 Spatburgunder trocken displays a lovely, balanced, amalgam of ripe yet tart-edged fresh cherry and red currant fruit, marrowy meatiness, and a creamy texture. The aromas are subtle and nice poised between red fruits and meats as well. Satisfying mineral suggestions build as the wine opens in the glass, and it is clear that this has class and flavor interest, not to mention the sort of refinement of red wine fruit and textural allure that only Pinot Noir can deliver. Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor. Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370