2002 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein*
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An awe-inspiring offering, Johannes Selbach’s 2002 Riesling Eiswein Zeltinger Himmelreich * displays aromas eerily reminiscent of a live lobster prior to being cooked. Scents of the sea and a certain earth sweetness lead to a thick, rich, deep, and powerful core of red currants, tangy sugar-coated limes, and loads of spices. This wine has magnificent purity, sublime concentration, and massive length. It will most certainly earn an even higher score as it harmonizes with cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2050. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
Critic scores
Pierre Rovani
More reviews and scores
(for 375 ml.) My comments on vintage 2002 wines that juxtapose creaminess of texture with brightness of acids, sheer extract with delicacy of touch, may become repetitious. But here is the most extreme example imaginable. This superconcentrate of pear nectar, apple jelly, lemon, and slate will evolve at a glacial pace entirely appropriate to its frozen origins. 2 stars.