2005 Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

Schmitges’ 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese – representing a true berry selection – smells intensely of apricot and peach, and comes onto the palate with enveloping richness, flattering creaminess, and apricot, peach, nut paste, and a whiff of truffle. This displays the clarity of fruit and the lift and elegance of the best 2005s, and even a hint of wet stones and smoky red slate nuances are in evidence in the long, fabulously rich finish, which should last for a half century and will doubtless pick up additional complexity after it has had even just a few months in bottle. Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84). Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544