2019 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Contacto

The 2019 Alvarinho Contacto comes in at 12.5% alcohol, 6.5 grams of total acidity and 1.5 grams of residual sugar. Unlike the Muros Antigos (in case you're wondering), this is 100% from Quinta da Torre (located in Monção), which is composed of alluvial, fluvial terraces and granitic soils, with altitudes between 50 to 100 meters. This wine is made with a short skin maceration (hence the name Contacto) for 12 hours at 12 degrees Celsius. This is often one of the best value points in Vinho Verde. So, too, this year. In fact, this seems exceptional. This year, it has a somewhat nervier and very precise style, not terribly fruity or rich. It has all the power of the Muros Antigos Alvarinho this issue but more depth, at least in perception (although neither are the deepest as Alvarinhos go). In fact, it has more power too, to the point where I wondered if this really needed to be put away for six months to allow it to develop, and a little extra complexity. (The Muros Antigos, for its part, seems more delicate but also brighter and more transparent—don't overlook it. The styles are a little different, though different sides of the same coin, but they are both very good.) This is certainly going to age well, perhaps notably better than indicated, but let's be conservative. The price is right, making this a no-brainer purchase. It has the potential to improve with cellaring.

12 hours on skins, four months on lees. A little more subdued than the Muros Antigos but smells deeper, with those same pear-fruit aromas. The skin contact has given a light friction balanced by the creamy lees effect. Long, sour-fresh finish. Mouth-watering. Great texture and length. (JH)